Pushkar is a historic pilgrimage place rich in Puranic legends from Indian texts. Most people link it with the sole Brahma Temple in the world. Though I have discovered many more Brahma temples, they are extremely rare and difficult to find. Here, the Brahma mythology lives on. Pushkar centered around the Brahma and Savitri temples, which are located on a nearby hill. It is thought that each Yuga, or era of human existence on Earth, has four main pilgrimage sites associated with it. The first, or Satyuga, was Naimisharanya; the second, or Treta, was Pushkar; the third, or Dwapar, was Kurukshetra; and the fourth, or Kaliyuga, is Ganga. Over the last year, I’ve visited all four holy sites, and it feels like time travel in some ways!
This lake is at the center of the city, and the city revolves around it. The hill on which the Savitri Temple is built provides an excellent view of the city. You can view the lake, the city, and the surrounding hills. If you’re lucky, like I was, you might see a rainbow in the city, as if it were connecting the lake and the sky. The lake is encircled by ghats on either side. The majority of them are named after various Rajputana monarchs who erected them. Some are named after nearby temples, while others have interesting stories attached to them.
Graffiti and street art may be found here and there, but not in the same way that Varanasi ghats were. There are boards that announce the names of all the ghats and provide a brief introduction. You will observe Red Bahis being updated by the Pandits, who keep track of the city’s visitors. This location may well be the white city of Rajasthan. Most of the ghats here are white, a hue I associate with Brahma. Until a few decades ago, the lake was abundant with crocodiles and fish. No boating has ever been permitted on the lake. However, when they came to immerse Mahatma Gandhi’s remains, they opted to remove the crocodiles. The final pair of crocodiles that lived in the lake can be seen at a small shrine near Bhadavar Ghat.
Most people believe that the big lake is the only lake in the city. However, writings such as the Padma Puran describe three ancient lakes. So, this time, I set out to explore the other two lakes. According to several reports, they are known as Brahma, Vishnu, and Rudra Lakes, or Jyeshtha, Madhyam, and Kanishth, respectively, which indicate elder, middle, and younger lakes. Brahma Pushkar is the primary lake we visited above.
It is a gorgeous lake located on the outskirts of the city. If you drive from Jaipur, you will come across this lake before entering the city. Budha Pushkar is commonly referred to as the “old one.” The lake has gorgeous towering ghats made of stone. The hills on the other side reflect in the calm waters of the lake. Bathing ponds are built near to the ghats. I visited shortly after Ganesh Chaturthi, and the lakefront was adorned with large and miniature Ganesha statues. There are evidences of ceremonial worship all around. Cows were moving up and down as if on an evening walk.
There are several modest temples scattered around the lake. Behind the ghats is a little garden, and next to it is a small stepwell known as Sri 108 Sri Rudra Gaumukh Kund, or just Rudra Kund. It contains a modest Shiva temple on one side. 108 Shiva Lingas encircle the Kund. They are on a single panel, with a little single Nandi facing them. The area was empty, with just cows and dogs roaming around. Probably I arrived at the incorrect moment. The lake is lovely; I only wish it was a little cleaner.
The main lake is widely known. Budha Pushkar’s presence is sensed as you enter the city. Indeed, it is well-known across the city. However, it is hidden from the city’s main paths. It took us a while to figure out where it is. When we got there, there were signs pointing to it. Both this and Rudra Kund have the distinctive stepwell construction of Chand Baori in Abhaneri.
Near the foothills, there is a little Nageshwar Mahadev temple with five separate ponds. Each pond is named after one of the Pandava brothers: Nag Kund, Chandra Kund, Surya Kund, Padma Kund, and Ganga Kund. I was told that the location is popular for removing Kaal Sarp Dosh. This place, like any pilgrimage site, is packed of temples, and the number of them is impossible to count. So let me walk you through a few of them.
The Brahma Temple is the most well-known temple related with the narrative of Pushkar Lake’s creation. The temple is thought to have been erected by Rishi Vishwamitra. Adi Shankaracharya built the temple during his travels. Aurangzeb attacked it, and the Maharaja of Ratlam restored it. Late evening, in fading light, I noticed a wonderful stepwell with a round well in the center. Small temples surround it. A sign there indicates that this is the confluence of the Chandra and Saraswati rivers. It was originally a large lake, but is now simply a stepwell. Thursdays are significant pilgrimage days for the Tirth.
Legend of the Brahma Temple.
According to the Padma Puran, Brahma attempted to kill Asura Vajranabh with his lotus stem. During the process, the lotus fell into three areas, resulting in the formation of three lakes in this town. Brahma then chose to perform the Yagna on the largest of these lakes. He built four hills in four directions around the lake to guard it from the Asuras. You may see these hills if you visit any of the three Devi temples that sit atop the hills. He needed his wife Savitri to perform the Yagna, but she was delayed. In a haste, Brahma wedded Gayatri and conducted the Yagna beside her.
This irritated Savitri, and she cursed Brahma, claiming that he would be worshipped only in Pushkar. She later moved to the nearby hill, which provided a view of the area. Gayatri stayed with Brahma at his temple. The Brahma temple is located on a high pedestal. Steps lead to the temple’s main entrance, which is built in classic Rajasthani architecture with Chhatris. It is a modest temple compared to its name. There is a small mandapa with bright blue pillars and a Garbhagriha with an orange Shikhara. A marble arch forms a type of frame around the temple.
On his left, there is a four-faced Brahma Murti and one of Gayatri Devi. Savitri is on the hill to his right. In his four hands, he holds an Akshmala or rosary, a Kamadala or pot, Vedas, and Kusha grass while seated on his chariot, the Hamsa or Swan. A modest temple dedicated to Amba is located behind the Brahma temple in the same complex. A few of minor Shiva temples are built on a level below this temple. Traditionally, when visiting the site, you take a swim in the holy lake, then visit the Brahma temple before moving on to the other temples. This temple celebrates Poornima and Amavasya. Kartik Purnima, which falls 15 days after Diwali, is the most auspicious.